5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

EROTOKRITOS Paris: FW 2018/19 collection

The lifestyle and fashion brand EROTOKRITOS PARIS revealed its Fall Winter menswear collection, embracing a new ‘contemporary’ style and aesthetic.

The homme collection consists of shirts with retro influences and patterns, high waist trousers and there is a big focus on knitwear; EROTOKRITOS’ identity element.

The designer proposes a new effortless style for the brand. In our eyes, it is all about comfort and it's about function and formality at the same time.

Erotokritos notes “ the collection is a take on contemporary pop culture mixed with timeless 1930s retro pieces.”

Find out more about EROTOKRITOS Paris online

Follow EROTOKRITOS on Instagram

5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

LES DEUX AW18 collection

The Danish brand Les Deux  has been created back in 2009 as only a t-shirt concept, but the brand has evolved with a full collection and premium finish. Les Deux consists of contemporary, practical pieces with scandi aesthetic and elements, and it  has become one to watch on REY.

.This AW18 season, Les Deux have worked to develop a collection that embodies the coming together of subcultures. The brand has submerged itself into three different brotherhoods of society’s misfits from around the world- The Bluecoat Brotherhood, The Foreign Legion and Hooliganism.

The collection attempts to reflect the communities that have, and continue to disrupt the social norms, defining their own space within society. This is translated through a delicate balance of its heritage minimalistic-Scandi-style, combined with key stand-out staples that create a feeling of diversity.

Wool and knitwear, along with  slogan T-shirts and sweatshirts, crisp cotton shirts and bomber jackets have been combined with tailored trousers, accessories and trainers for a cool contemporary look.

For more collection and stocklist visit lesdeux.com

Follow LES DEUX on Instagram

Versace’s AW18: New campaign with the longest-ever advertising image

Shot by Stephen Meisel, The Versace Fall Winter 2018 campaign features the longest-ever advertising image.

Side by side, the image features a cast of fifty four models symbolizing inlcusivity and diversity, key values for Donatella Versace and her vision for the brand.

“My team doesn’t just extend to my work team. The Versace Clans are made of all members of the Versace family – from customers to models, fans, photographers, stylists, friends, artists and all who believe that staying relevant means moving forward and making your voice heard – all who believe that fashion is not a way to just say ‘look at me’ but rather ‘look at me, I have something to say’.” she stated last when the very first promo video came out. 

Richard Biedul x King & Tuckfield AW18 collaboration collection

King & Tuckfield is a new menswear contemporary brand, founded by Stacey Wood just 3 years ago. Its signature aesthetic fuses a distinctly British 1950’s feel, with sharp contemporary styling inspired by the colourful stories of Stacey's family history.

The design team is passionate  with quality and sustainable materials, and their inspiration comes from the British fashion heritage and culture.  They always love to mix everything that looks vintage with something that looks modern creating the new classic. 

Model, Art and Style director, Richard Biedul  joined that team to create his first 5 pieces-capsule collection and with these AW18 pieces makes his debut in the design world. 

The collection consists of pieces which everyone needs all the time and every piece seems to be ideal for your wardrobe. Richard mentioned "We've created almost an off-duty uniform… it is about comfort, it's about function and formality" 

And it's actually true. Everything can go from casual to formal depends on the way you style them on you. Modern, elegant pieces that will always be in fashion. 

During this collaboration Richard has discovered a new found love for quality denim and has merged this new passion on his designs too. Focusing also on 100% fine merino wool in a bold spectrum of Navy, Fiesta Red and Clover Green, the collection is inspired with vintage references and a 1950's notion. 

 . Richard Biedul x King & Tuckfield AW18 capsule collection translates back to the main SS19 collection which we had the opportunity to see during London Fashion Week and we have to admit that we fell in love with...

The AW18 collection is now available on kingandtuckfield.com

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

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The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

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For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

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Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

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Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

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For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

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LFW AW18: Burberry

For the last time, Christopher Bailey presented his collection for Burberry AW18 in a show entitled Time. Held in the historical venue of the Dimco Buildings in West London, guests were met with an experience of past, present and future.

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The show was dedicated to LGBTQ+ organisations, with the brand donating to three charities. It was certainly a moment of pride for Bailey, much like every aspect of the show championing the six colours of the Pride flag. The rainbow – a symbol of hope, happiness and inclusivity featured heavily throughout the show, whether it be from the reinvented check now incorporated with the colours (the Rainbow check), or Cara Delevingne’s floor-length cloak which she swept and swayed along the runway. The bright stripes appeared on sweaters, gilets and down one side of the oversized maxi skirt of Adwoa Aboah.

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source: theglassmagazine.com

Tom Ford brings sexy back in New York Fashion Week

The American designer showed his first menswear runway collection in New York and we loved every single piece.

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After a lot of menswear presentations in the past, Tom Ford has presented his first menswear show during New York Fashion Week. The show was so 'on point' and the designer gave us a taste from all the styles and pieces. Alongside snakeskin trousers and matching cowboy boots, pearlescent tailoring and sateen biker trousers, Ford shook things up with tassel loafers finished with chunky sneaker soles, a lemon-yellow hoodie (a Tom Ford hoodie? Yes, please) and a hefty python-print puffer jacket.

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The classic tailoring pieces and simple overcoats are the brand's hero pieces so they were a strong element as well.

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At the end of the show six-pack models walked in branded underwear and we have already chosen our favourite. 

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Paris Fashion Week: Valentino AW18

Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.

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Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.

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The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.

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Milan Fashion Week: ETRO AW18

Dandy Detour: Menswear Collection Autumn Winter 2018/19

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Etro Dandy invites you into his home on a journey through his private life and collected memories.

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Fine suiting is front and center for the occasion. Checks, paisley prints, and more decorate an amazing selection of pieces.

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The regal presentation took place in t Palazzo del Ghiaccio during Milan Fashion Week.

Milan Fashion Week: MOSCHINO AW18

Jeremy Scott amazed the fashion world during Milan Fashion Week as his new AW18 collection for MOSCHINO was the biggest fashion highlight during the weekend.

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The collection was a mixture of Pre Fall and FALL for 2018-2019 and we have seen both menswear and womenswear collections on the runway. The mixture between the two was the key for the collection as the designer mixed  masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way.

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Two became one as we had overt dress codes of gender as well. Pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him

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Watch the runway show here: 

London Fashion Week Men's AW18 - REVIEW

Words by Stephen George

The schedule’s short! Menswear is in turmoil!! Fashion week is falling apart at the seams!!! THE BEES ARE DISAPPEARING!!!! The bees disappearing have nothing to do with fashion week but they do share something in common – they represent the current state of the (fashion) industry today. 

We’ve seen the schedules become tighter and smaller - London Fashion Week: Mens neé London Collections: Men was the caped crusader of menswear; at one point spanning five days has been reduced to 3 days for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Gone are the big hitters – Burberry, J.W. Anderson who have now chosen to follow the same model as Gucci and Balenciaga to show their men’s and women’s collections together. Additionally fashion darling Martine Rose and stalwart are also absent from the schedule.

All together these changes and absences led to a very underwhelming season with a few notable highlights and moments of genius. One plus side of having a very skimpy and light fashion week schedule it makes designers present some of their best work but also the crowd is on high alert for something brilliant and beautiful to come down the runway and take their breath away. For a moment when the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and you put away your phone and enjoy what is being shown in front of you.

John Lawrence Sullivan AW18

John Lawrence Sullivan AW18

John Lawrence Sullivan kicked off the first day of London Fashion Week: Mens by presenting a collection drawing its inspiration from psychopathic thriller movies like Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Lynch’s Twin Peaks. The Arashi Yanagawa translated this in looks that featured indigo blue jeans mixed with black leather on the legs, worn leather gilets and jackets that tied on the sides like straight jackets. Yanagawa expanded on his signature palette of black and grey with licks of lavender purples and emerald greens. Plaid printed coats and a leopard print overcoat riffed on Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent which played into the cowboy western theme. John Lawrence Sullivan is what Vetements wants to be but more authentic and less consumer and appealing to the masses.


The spaghetti western American cowboy inspiration was evident at Astrid Andersen. Despite not being alive for the Buffalo movement she managed to captured and replicate the look with a modern, street wear edge that her brand has been founded on.
All the Andersen signatures were there – lace and logo t-shirts and hoodies, ornate and check printed baggy trousers and shorts sent out to a hip-hop soundtrack and Nike trainers. She added the Buffalo spirit through accessorising looks with Stetson hats, lashings of tweed and shaggy wool.


The standout of day two came at the end of day two from Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy. Charles Jeffrey is currently riding a momentous career wave. Hailed as London’s contemporary Galliano for this generation he’s coming off the back of winning the award for Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards last month presented by John Galliano himself. He was one of highlights of the MAN show for the three seasons he showed before going it alone. Since then he’s gone from strength to strength with a team comprising of the infamous Gary Card. He’s managed to bring the young gay community collectively together, gave them a space to bring their theatre, drama and performance back to fashion shows, educated the young and unwashed about club kid culture but through it all manage to put a grin on the coldest hearted individual in the room.

Charles Jeffrey AW18

Charles Jeffrey AW18

Jeffrey’s shows have a way of transporting you to another place and making you feel some kind of emotion – this year it was anger and fear. Waiting for the show to start figures dressed in dirty, dusty clothes and chalky white faces came out and began screaming; a woman sat next to me jumped out her skin. No one expected it and for over 10 minutes these figures roamed around the runway screaming and yelling at each other and at guests as they were being seated. Like angry, disgruntle toddlers they threw a tantrum! 


When the show started it kicked off with a live band playing a heavy rock version of The Prodigy’s Firestarter instantly transporting us back to the angsty moody teenagers blaring this song out of our bedrooms angry at the world for no reason. As the drums kicked in and heartbeats raced the face model pounded down the runway in a moth eaten double-breasted navy suit fastened with an oversized safety pin – the most wearable look of the collection. Other looks featured an red and blue argyle sweater ballooned and cinched at the waist and a graffiti swiggle print logo long sleeved tee shirt and high waisted light blue trousers with red side stripe on a male model who’s face was painted to resemble Naomi Campbell and a strut to match. The whole time the figures from earlier berate, applaud and react as they walk past.
New to Jeffrey’s vocabulary was the inclusion of tartan midi length skirt suit cinched at the waist and flared at the knee with beret to match or the long length tartan jacket with cropped trouser. All of which were inspired by Jeffrey’s trip to his hometown in Scotland and his Scottish heritage.

Liam Hodges AW18

Liam Hodges AW18

This feeling of grunge and the 90s rave culture was evident at Liam Hodges. Styled with cartoon flora green hair and extreme makeup featuring X’s on the eyes and a downturned smile on the lips of some of the models. Models took to the checkerboard runway in cartoon graphics of daisies and ghosts t-shirts layered over thin black and white striped long sleeved t-shirts, bleached striped denim matching jacket and trousers complete with FILA sneaker-boots. Hodges drove home his message of youth and enjoying it while it lasted with a finale that had Baz Luhrman’s Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen).

 ‘Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth
oh nevermind;
you will not understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself
And recall in a way you can’t grasp now how the possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked…’


London Fashion Week: Mens a few years later; older and wiser still manages to intrigue, entertain and tug at the heart strings.