FW2020-21: Best of London Fashion Week Men's

2020 found us in London waiting for Men’s Fashion Week. This season was all about the new talents as many of the big names are not showing in the English fashion capital anymore. Our stylist & editor Martina Ghia was out and around and she has put down all you need about it.

Fall Winter 2020-21 seems to be a new era on men’s fashion with a lot of 90s elements, deconstructed denim and total denim looks, wide trousers, oversized coats and of course the new tailoring - a complete new generation on the classic tailoring, showing the elegance of the trend with a twist.

Below you’ll find the best of looks from some of our favourite shows:

Martine Rose

Per Götesson

Wales Bonner

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

Pronounce

Astrid Andersen

5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

810 (2).jpg

The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

810 (3).jpg

For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

810.jpg

Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

810 (5).jpg

Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

810 (6).jpg

For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

810 (7).jpg