Amidst the stellar shows of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a singular brand dared to stand out. JordanLuca, the rising cult label, known for its bold, unconventional style brought London punk streetwear to Milan. Christina Dymioti captured the electric energy from the front row.
by Christina Dymioti
Founded in 2019, JordanLuca is a couture streetwear label which seamlessly blends the English and Italian heritage of its founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto. It is noteworthy that Mr. Pan Phillipou, the co-founder and Chairman of the brand, previously served as the CEO of Diesel and Ben Sherman. He has a background of Cypriot and Irish descent.
Heritage tweeds were reborn with punkish spikes as JORDANLUCA's Fall/Winter 2024 collection expertly wove rebellious details into timeless tailoring. Walking into the JordanLuca runway, silver balloons, like bloated dreams, hung from every seat, and the runway was a buoyant ocean of 1,500 more. These unique balloons were designed by artist Dominic Myatt.
The clothes themselves were Punk-inspired in subversive classics. The show kicked off with tailored overcoats worn with face-hugging headwear and straight-fitting trousers, which lapped leather angular boots. Later, the same headwear was contrasted with grey suiting, where a fastened jacket covered a shirt and the renowned JordanLuca tie.
Dark eyeliner offered contrast, injecting a club-ready sensibility into an otherwise pared-back look. In fact, there was a surprise runway appearance by Andreas Kronthaler, the Creative Director of Vivienne Westwood who is also a close friend of Marchetto. Andreas graced the runway in a head-to-toe black look, a stark contrast to the buoyant balloons.
We saw leather used to craft structured jackets, with mohawk hair styling, and chunky silver jewellery, injecting a counter-cultural edge into the look. As the show continued the party theme was seen in white blouses and dresses, finished with multicoloured polka dots. The women's pieces were particularly striking, riffing on ladylike codes with fierce and sensual numbers like the standout red leather minidress and the bias-cut frock that wrapped endlessly around the body.