Paris Fashion Week Men's: Our favourites for SS 20

Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:

DIOR

Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.

JW ANDERSON

Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.

JACQUEMUS

The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.

Dries Van Noten

Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.

Versace SS20: Neon and Punk influences during Milan Fashion Week.

Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.

Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:

photography: vogue.com

Dolce & Gabbana Men: The SS20 show at Milan Fashion Week

That was a remarkable ‘‘comeback’’ show from the Italian fashion house.

We have seen a total resurrection of Dolce & Gabbana archival pieces included a loose armed, high-waisted, two top-cut pocketed leather jacket from 1991 that came in a direct reproduction of the original and variations painted with those quivering pin-ups.

Notable styling with outstaning mix and match comnbinations:

photogaphy: vogue.com

MSGM: TheSS20 show at Pitti Uomo

MSGM has revealed its 10th anniversary collection in Florence, during Pitti Uomo.

Camp collar shirts in lobster, poppy, or bandana paisley prints were mashed against pants and track jackets in lividly clashing two-tone leopard print. Sebago boat shoes and linen blousons and shorts featured naive graphics and heartfelt scrawled messages of summer love. A collaboration with the painter Norbert Bisky produced an attractive fractured portrait used as prints on shirting, shorts, and perforated nylon vests or in panels on the tailoring.



London Fashion Week Men's: The SS20 Highlights

London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.

Alexander McQueen: with SS20 presentation at #LFWM

Classic & Classy Oliver Spencer

Per Götesson: 3D Romance and Simplicity

Chalayan: Loving stripes and the new tailoring

Robyn Lynch for FASHION EAST: Pastels & Super Shorts

Mowalola for FASHION EAST: ‘Vampire’ is the new trend

Saint Laurent SS2020: What we loved from the show in Los Angeles

It is on a paradisiacal beach of Malibu that Anthony Vaccarello has just unveiled his man parade spring-summer 2020. Incredible set, inspirations landed in Marrakech, tribute to Yves Saint Laurent ... Here is all that was needed of this California show..

WE LOVED

THE SET: the Malibu beach side in Los Angeles

THE INSPIRATION: Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent with the styling between Malibu and Marrakech.

THE TRENDS PROPOSAL: Fluidity, freedom and comfort. At a time when the trend is streetwear, Anthony Vaccarello abandons it and he propose his new tailoring.

Prada Men SS2020: Watch the show in Shanghai

#PradaSS20 Menswear was shown in Shanghai at the Silo Hall of Minsheng Wharf. An arrangement of neon lights outlines the industrial form language of the hall, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade that shimmers in subtle pastel colors.

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

Maison Margiela: AW19 men's collection

Maison Margiela AW19 offered up an antidote to digital overload.

John Galliano presented the latest collection for his band of ‘digital nomads’ and we love every single piece of it.

The show was on the tittles of every fashion site and magazine and here are the key elements of the Maison Margiela AW19 by John Galliano.

• It was darker than the previous collection but the blalck gave space to the most colourful (neon) pieces to shine.

• Painted hair, make up on men’s eyes, feathers and elements from the ‘Swan Lake’

• Extra wide shoulders wih triangle shapes on the outerwear and belts as the main accessories completed the styling.

Celine Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week

n his debut show for Celine – now sans accent – in September, Hedi Slimane made it more than clear what his intentions are for the house. If anyone thought that some of the reactions to that show would have an effect on his vision, his first men’s show for Celine spelled out a big fat – or indeed very, very skinny – no. In fashion, as in life, there are certain forces that will make themselves heard. Slimane is one of them. He believes in his own vision to its utmost core: from the mechanical light installation that fanfares every show (this time it was a huge geometric ball) to the stick thin models that walk his runway (a new one turns 18 every minute), to the emerging rock bands that score his collections (the irreverently named Crack Cloud), and the vintage-inspired aesthetic that embodies his garments. No matter how deep you search, the ultimate proposal of any of his collections – and indeed the one he showed on Sunday night – is in essence the brand of Hedi Slimane.

Seasonal collections, however, are put in the world to propose something new for the immediate future. So how do you, as an observer of such collections, approach the work of a designer, who believes so strongly in a consistent point of view? You could read into Sunday evening’s Celine collection and say that it proposed a more cropped and roomier tailored trouser, or that its suiting evoked the tie-wearing Patrick Bateman yuppie dad tailoring of 1980s’ Valentino; only cut for a much, much skinnier frame. You could talk about the glitter and sequinned pieces, which were no doubt of a notable artisanal value. Or you could point out the obvious nostalgia – or was it wistfulness – that existed within the collection for the mid-2000s when indie music culture was at its high and everyone looked like the boys, who walked the 2019 Celine runway. What has to be stated – for the sake of the history books – is that Celine menswear, which didn’t exist under Slimane’s predecessor Phoebe Philo, was brought into the world looking like this.

find more on vogue.co.uk

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week: Prada Men AW19

The industrial grand hall of the Deposito, part of Fondazione Prada complex, has been transformed into an arena of light and shadows. Miuccia Prada is back at it again as she serves to us the fashion reality and she takes inspiration from old movies like Frankenstein.

When the collection itself appears, it follows suit. Black is the colour that dominates, highlighted by bursts of vivid coloured garments or accessories, such as multiple belts wrapped around the models waist, neon pink boots and bold red feathered headpieces and pale blue glasses that are reminiscent of scientific goggles.

Milan Fashion Week: Versace Men AW19

Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.

The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.

The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style

source: Vogue Italia

Milan Fashion Week Men's: Naomi Campbell and Monica Bellucci at Dolce & Gabbana show

Milan, June 16: all eyes were on Monica Bellucci and Naomi Campbell. The duo shocked Men’s Fashion Week by appearing in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.

Dolce & Gabbana just presented their Spring/Summer 2019 men’s collection, which they describe as an homage to diversity. Gay and straight couples, 50-somethings walking alongside younger men, a family with child… the whole world was represented.

But two extra special guests rounded out the cast: Monica Bellucci, who last walked for the house in 1992, and Naomi Campbell, the ultimate 90s supermodel. Bellucci walked in a resolutely masculine suit paired with sky-high stilettos, while Campbell wore a white-striped black tuxedo, with outlandish brooches and a hat adding. An exceptional presentation in the history of an Italian house that has often flirted with controversy.

View fullsize

View fullsize

source: vogue homme

London Fashion Week Men's SS19: THE HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.

---

DANIEL W. FLETCHER debuts SS19 COLLECTION AT LFW:M

With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.

For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white  and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.

Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.

---

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode

Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.

---

OLIVER SPENCER

Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.

The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The  tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.

 It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.

---

Ben Sherman

The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.

Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.

---

ALEX MULLINS

This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.

Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints. 

LFW AW18: Burberry

For the last time, Christopher Bailey presented his collection for Burberry AW18 in a show entitled Time. Held in the historical venue of the Dimco Buildings in West London, guests were met with an experience of past, present and future.

The show was dedicated to LGBTQ+ organisations, with the brand donating to three charities. It was certainly a moment of pride for Bailey, much like every aspect of the show championing the six colours of the Pride flag. The rainbow – a symbol of hope, happiness and inclusivity featured heavily throughout the show, whether it be from the reinvented check now incorporated with the colours (the Rainbow check), or Cara Delevingne’s floor-length cloak which she swept and swayed along the runway. The bright stripes appeared on sweaters, gilets and down one side of the oversized maxi skirt of Adwoa Aboah.

source: theglassmagazine.com

Tom Ford brings sexy back in New York Fashion Week

The American designer showed his first menswear runway collection in New York and we loved every single piece.

After a lot of menswear presentations in the past, Tom Ford has presented his first menswear show during New York Fashion Week. The show was so 'on point' and the designer gave us a taste from all the styles and pieces. Alongside snakeskin trousers and matching cowboy boots, pearlescent tailoring and sateen biker trousers, Ford shook things up with tassel loafers finished with chunky sneaker soles, a lemon-yellow hoodie (a Tom Ford hoodie? Yes, please) and a hefty python-print puffer jacket.

The classic tailoring pieces and simple overcoats are the brand's hero pieces so they were a strong element as well.

At the end of the show six-pack models walked in branded underwear and we have already chosen our favourite. 

Milan Fashion Week: MOSCHINO AW18

Jeremy Scott amazed the fashion world during Milan Fashion Week as his new AW18 collection for MOSCHINO was the biggest fashion highlight during the weekend.

The collection was a mixture of Pre Fall and FALL for 2018-2019 and we have seen both menswear and womenswear collections on the runway. The mixture between the two was the key for the collection as the designer mixed  masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way.

Two became one as we had overt dress codes of gender as well. Pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him

Watch the runway show here: