Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

Maison Margiela: AW19 men's collection

Maison Margiela AW19 offered up an antidote to digital overload.

John Galliano presented the latest collection for his band of ‘digital nomads’ and we love every single piece of it.

The show was on the tittles of every fashion site and magazine and here are the key elements of the Maison Margiela AW19 by John Galliano.

  • It was darker than the previous collection but the blalck gave space to the most colourful (neon) pieces to shine.

  • Painted hair, make up on men’s eyes, feathers and elements from the ‘Swan Lake’

  • Extra wide shoulders wih triangle shapes on the outerwear and belts as the main accessories completed the styling.

TOM FORD Men's AW19 at New York Fashion Week

“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.

Celine Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week

n his debut show for Celine – now sans accent – in September, Hedi Slimane made it more than clear what his intentions are for the house. If anyone thought that some of the reactions to that show would have an effect on his vision, his first men’s show for Celine spelled out a big fat – or indeed very, very skinny – no. In fashion, as in life, there are certain forces that will make themselves heard. Slimane is one of them. He believes in his own vision to its utmost core: from the mechanical light installation that fanfares every show (this time it was a huge geometric ball) to the stick thin models that walk his runway (a new one turns 18 every minute), to the emerging rock bands that score his collections (the irreverently named Crack Cloud), and the vintage-inspired aesthetic that embodies his garments. No matter how deep you search, the ultimate proposal of any of his collections – and indeed the one he showed on Sunday night – is in essence the brand of Hedi Slimane.

Seasonal collections, however, are put in the world to propose something new for the immediate future. So how do you, as an observer of such collections, approach the work of a designer, who believes so strongly in a consistent point of view? You could read into Sunday evening’s Celine collection and say that it proposed a more cropped and roomier tailored trouser, or that its suiting evoked the tie-wearing Patrick Bateman yuppie dad tailoring of 1980s’ Valentino; only cut for a much, much skinnier frame. You could talk about the glitter and sequinned pieces, which were no doubt of a notable artisanal value. Or you could point out the obvious nostalgia – or was it wistfulness – that existed within the collection for the mid-2000s when indie music culture was at its high and everyone looked like the boys, who walked the 2019 Celine runway. What has to be stated – for the sake of the history books – is that Celine menswear, which didn’t exist under Slimane’s predecessor Phoebe Philo, was brought into the world looking like this.

find more on vogue.co.uk

Kris van Assche’s debut at Berluti during Paris Fashion Week.

It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”


Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:

  • Scarlet - Hot Pink combination

  • Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)

  • Overcoats will always be … grey

  • Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.

  • Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week: Prada Men AW19

The industrial grand hall of the Deposito, part of Fondazione Prada complex, has been transformed into an arena of light and shadows. Miuccia Prada is back at it again as she serves to us the fashion reality and she takes inspiration from old movies like Frankenstein.

When the collection itself appears, it follows suit. Black is the colour that dominates, highlighted by bursts of vivid coloured garments or accessories, such as multiple belts wrapped around the models waist, neon pink boots and bold red feathered headpieces and pale blue glasses that are reminiscent of scientific goggles.

Milan Fashion Week: Versace Men AW19

Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.

The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.

The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style

source: Vogue Italia

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 2 & 3 HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.

ALEX MULLINS

Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.

Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.

Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”

ASTRID ANDERSEN

Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.

PER GÖTESSON

In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.

XANDER ZHOU

A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.

The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..

OLIVER SPENCER

Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.

We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.

FENG CHEN WANG

History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY




Dior Men Pre Fall 2019

Kim Jones is building his vision for Dior Men with the notion that rules are meant to be broken.

First, he separated himself from a decade of “Dior Homme” and its super-skinny silhouette with a new name, and a fresh, boxier cut. Now, half a season in, he’s taking his vision on the road, landing in Tokyo with a Pre-Fall extravaganza to rival the season’s blockbuster womenswear shows.

On the runway were items for all kinds of guys, from the ones who want to wear a monogram silk shirt with cherry blossom accents to others who are looking for dapper houndstooth suits with posh, asymmetric blazers. A white astrakhan bomber that shaded into a toile de Jouy summed it up: something elegant as hell, yet grounded in utility, and designed with couture craftsmanship and know-how.

All of this was brought together around a 39-and-a-half-foot statue of a silver robo-babe by the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.

Watch the full show below:

source: vogue.com

Jacquemus’ first menswear collection for SS19

JACQUEMUS unveiled his first men’s collection titled “Le Gadjo”, in the south of France, by the seaside. 

Masculine topless models in track pants and with no shoes, have presented a really different collection from what we expected to see from Jacquemus . A collection which sits on really different level and aesthetic from his latest delightful SS18 womenswear collection. 

Street style and 90s casual elements on numerous looks along with some tailoring references have been combined and created his SS19 menswear collection.  

Paris Fashion Week Men's:Kim Jones' debut with Dior Homme SS19

Kim Jones made his debut in Paris on Saturday afternoon as artistic director for Dior Men, the rechristened Dior Homme, completing the changing of the guard for the spring/summer 2019 season. In a tribute to Dior and to his own heritage, Jones invited Prince Nikolai of Denmark to start the show.

The British designer mined the Dior archive for inspiration to pay tribute to the man who established the fabled brand in 1946.This aesthetic approach lends itself to a softer, more relaxed Dior Men than we are used to seeing. 

Dior Homme SS19 has streetwear touches and elements but Jones moved away from the huge trend, offering to the audience pure tailoring luxury. “I’ve moved away from that a bit,” he explained. “[That’s] easy modern menswear; this is a lot more elegant and sophisticated and a little bit romantic too, which is what Dior is.”

source: guardian.com

LOEWE Men's Spring Summer 2019

The Spanish Fashion house has presented its men’s spring/summer 2019 collection designed by Jonathan Anderson.

The collection was presented in the LOEWE headquarters on Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris, where the space was transformed into a naïve playground featuring images from the house’s latest printed publication shot by American art photographer Duane Michals.

LOEWE’s new menswear collection flits across time and space to illicit a boyish study of dressing up – where childhood memories haze with botanical and geometric motifs like sea urchins and stained glass, cowri shells and whelks, bandanas, and mythological lions.

London Fashion Week Men's SS19: THE HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.

DANIEL W. FLETCHER debuts SS19 COLLECTION AT LFW:M

With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.

For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white  and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.

Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode

Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.

OLIVER SPENCER

Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.

The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The  tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.

 It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.

Ben Sherman

The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.

Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.

ALEX MULLINS

This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.

Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints. 

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

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The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

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For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

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Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

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Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

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For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

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LFW AW18: JW Anderson

ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it

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Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.

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source: .theglassmagazine.com