Tom Ford has suddenly presented a preview of his SS19 menswear collection on Instagram during Paris Fashion Week shocking the fashion world with the unexpected posts.
The designer shared a selection of looks focusing on details of the collection and the styling for SS19. Captured on Polaroid, the men’s collection features sophisticated suiting, luxurious outerwear, and lounge wear.
Milan, June 16: all eyes were on Monica Bellucci and Naomi Campbell. The duo shocked Men’s Fashion Week by appearing in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.
Dolce & Gabbana just presented their Spring/Summer 2019 men’s collection, which they describe as an homage to diversity. Gay and straight couples, 50-somethings walking alongside younger men, a family with child… the whole world was represented.
But two extra special guests rounded out the cast: Monica Bellucci, who last walked for the house in 1992, and Naomi Campbell, the ultimate 90s supermodel. Bellucci walked in a resolutely masculine suit paired with sky-high stilettos, while Campbell wore a white-striped black tuxedo, with outlandish brooches and a hat adding. An exceptional presentation in the history of an Italian house that has often flirted with controversy.
source: vogue homme
Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.
Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.
With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.
For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.
Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.
One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode
Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.
Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.
The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.
It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.
The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.
Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.
This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.
Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints.
Anthony Vaccarello takes inspiration from 1970s New York for Saint Laurent's spring-summer 2019 collection.
In fact, the season brought the French fashion house close to the iconic city with a show at New Jersey's Liberty Park. Saint Laurent's rocker-chic aesthetic was once again front and center for the occasion.
Black skinny jeans and cigarette trousers accented leather detailed blazer, suede jackets, and more. Sequins and glittered embellishments added an androgynous attitude to the collection. Meanwhile, sheer tops, frail scarves, and tailored jackets brought home a Parisian spirit.
The show closed with shirtless male models that were clad in sequined pants and covered in glitter body paint. source: thefashionisto.com
When it comes to prints and colors, Alessandro Michele does not discriminate and the proof is in the designer's cruise 2019 collection for Gucci.
The Italian fashion house unveiled its latest range with a runway show in Arles, France. The Roman necropolis Alyscamps served as the setting for the occasion. Michele embraced a juxtaposition of his bold aesthetic with that of the gothic motif for the season.
Oversized coats, check trousers, floral print knitwear, pussy bow tops, relaxed shirts, belt bags, strapped sandals, sporty sneakers, and more contributed to the Gucci man's new wardrobe.
source: thefashionisto.com
Androgynous looks and grey flannel for women; pants down, heels and puppy heads for men.
A runway which looked like an art studio and “Lady painters painting portraits of ladies, in grey flannel.” Models styled with androgynous outfits and with hair inspired from 18th century French aristocracy strolled along the runway, taking up positions for the painters while Madonna's 'Vogue' was the main soundtrack of the show.
For the second and main part of the show, models walked wearing deconstructed outfits, all in the 'fifty shades of grey' flannel Some remind us men's office clothes, some others school uniform and the hero pieces are definitely statements inspired by the same century.
Half dresses combined with others, skirts as tops and the opposite were some of the highlights.
And as a conclusion the most powerful statement of all: male models wearing grey dog head masks and heels walked out, all harnessed, followed by Grace Bol, the South Sundanese model holding their leashes and wearing a ball gown.
Words by Stephen George
It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.
The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.
For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.
Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit.
Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.
Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.
The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food
; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.
For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.
Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow.
For the last time, Christopher Bailey presented his collection for Burberry AW18 in a show entitled Time. Held in the historical venue of the Dimco Buildings in West London, guests were met with an experience of past, present and future.
The show was dedicated to LGBTQ+ organisations, with the brand donating to three charities. It was certainly a moment of pride for Bailey, much like every aspect of the show championing the six colours of the Pride flag. The rainbow – a symbol of hope, happiness and inclusivity featured heavily throughout the show, whether it be from the reinvented check now incorporated with the colours (the Rainbow check), or Cara Delevingne’s floor-length cloak which she swept and swayed along the runway. The bright stripes appeared on sweaters, gilets and down one side of the oversized maxi skirt of Adwoa Aboah.
source: theglassmagazine.com
ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it
Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.
source: .theglassmagazine.com
The American designer showed his first menswear runway collection in New York and we loved every single piece.
After a lot of menswear presentations in the past, Tom Ford has presented his first menswear show during New York Fashion Week. The show was so 'on point' and the designer gave us a taste from all the styles and pieces. Alongside snakeskin trousers and matching cowboy boots, pearlescent tailoring and sateen biker trousers, Ford shook things up with tassel loafers finished with chunky sneaker soles, a lemon-yellow hoodie (a Tom Ford hoodie? Yes, please) and a hefty python-print puffer jacket.
The classic tailoring pieces and simple overcoats are the brand's hero pieces so they were a strong element as well.
At the end of the show six-pack models walked in branded underwear and we have already chosen our favourite.
Discover highlights from the Autumn-Winter 2018 Maison Margiela Men’s Collection presented yesterday evening as part of Paris Fashion Week.
In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. interpretations of tailored pieces revitalize the classic form of menswear silhouettes.
Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections. Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.
Neil Barrett
One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.
The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.
Versace
This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .
This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.
My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
Fendi
With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.
This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.
The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.
Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag.
MSGM
The MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with...
The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.
These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel.
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
Words: Elias Ttiggis
A first glimpse at Louis Vuitton Men's Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show by Kim Jones.
After 7 years at Louis Vuitton Kim Jones stepped down from his role as Men’s Artistic Director and the finale was remarkable.
The designer presented a collection rich in sportswear references including a series of jersey tops and parkas finished with dramatic crater prints, crocodile backpacks and double-faced cashmere baseball tops.
The nomadic mood, rodeo inspired flankman-shorts, the intarsia mink coats from Russia and Siberia and a 'greatest hits' o previous LV collections; were all there.
The finale was the perfect conclusion to Jones' incredible fashion journey with Louis Vuitton. His last time on LV runway was along with the super models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.
Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.
The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.
Dandy Detour: Menswear Collection Autumn Winter 2018/19
Etro Dandy invites you into his home on a journey through his private life and collected memories.
Fine suiting is front and center for the occasion. Checks, paisley prints, and more decorate an amazing selection of pieces.
The regal presentation took place in t Palazzo del Ghiaccio during Milan Fashion Week.
Jeremy Scott amazed the fashion world during Milan Fashion Week as his new AW18 collection for MOSCHINO was the biggest fashion highlight during the weekend.
The collection was a mixture of Pre Fall and FALL for 2018-2019 and we have seen both menswear and womenswear collections on the runway. The mixture between the two was the key for the collection as the designer mixed masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way.
Two became one as we had overt dress codes of gender as well. Pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him
Watch the runway show here:
Words by Stephen George
The schedule’s short! Menswear is in turmoil!! Fashion week is falling apart at the seams!!! THE BEES ARE DISAPPEARING!!!! The bees disappearing have nothing to do with fashion week but they do share something in common – they represent the current state of the (fashion) industry today.
We’ve seen the schedules become tighter and smaller - London Fashion Week: Mens neé London Collections: Men was the caped crusader of menswear; at one point spanning five days has been reduced to 3 days for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Gone are the big hitters – Burberry, J.W. Anderson who have now chosen to follow the same model as Gucci and Balenciaga to show their men’s and women’s collections together. Additionally fashion darling Martine Rose and stalwart are also absent from the schedule.
All together these changes and absences led to a very underwhelming season with a few notable highlights and moments of genius. One plus side of having a very skimpy and light fashion week schedule it makes designers present some of their best work but also the crowd is on high alert for something brilliant and beautiful to come down the runway and take their breath away. For a moment when the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and you put away your phone and enjoy what is being shown in front of you.
John Lawrence Sullivan AW18
John Lawrence Sullivan kicked off the first day of London Fashion Week: Mens by presenting a collection drawing its inspiration from psychopathic thriller movies like Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Lynch’s Twin Peaks. The Arashi Yanagawa translated this in looks that featured indigo blue jeans mixed with black leather on the legs, worn leather gilets and jackets that tied on the sides like straight jackets. Yanagawa expanded on his signature palette of black and grey with licks of lavender purples and emerald greens. Plaid printed coats and a leopard print overcoat riffed on Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent which played into the cowboy western theme. John Lawrence Sullivan is what Vetements wants to be but more authentic and less consumer and appealing to the masses.
The spaghetti western American cowboy inspiration was evident at Astrid Andersen. Despite not being alive for the Buffalo movement she managed to captured and replicate the look with a modern, street wear edge that her brand has been founded on.
All the Andersen signatures were there – lace and logo t-shirts and hoodies, ornate and check printed baggy trousers and shorts sent out to a hip-hop soundtrack and Nike trainers. She added the Buffalo spirit through accessorising looks with Stetson hats, lashings of tweed and shaggy wool.
The standout of day two came at the end of day two from Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy. Charles Jeffrey is currently riding a momentous career wave. Hailed as London’s contemporary Galliano for this generation he’s coming off the back of winning the award for Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards last month presented by John Galliano himself. He was one of highlights of the MAN show for the three seasons he showed before going it alone. Since then he’s gone from strength to strength with a team comprising of the infamous Gary Card. He’s managed to bring the young gay community collectively together, gave them a space to bring their theatre, drama and performance back to fashion shows, educated the young and unwashed about club kid culture but through it all manage to put a grin on the coldest hearted individual in the room.
Charles Jeffrey AW18
Jeffrey’s shows have a way of transporting you to another place and making you feel some kind of emotion – this year it was anger and fear. Waiting for the show to start figures dressed in dirty, dusty clothes and chalky white faces came out and began screaming; a woman sat next to me jumped out her skin. No one expected it and for over 10 minutes these figures roamed around the runway screaming and yelling at each other and at guests as they were being seated. Like angry, disgruntle toddlers they threw a tantrum!
When the show started it kicked off with a live band playing a heavy rock version of The Prodigy’s Firestarter instantly transporting us back to the angsty moody teenagers blaring this song out of our bedrooms angry at the world for no reason. As the drums kicked in and heartbeats raced the face model pounded down the runway in a moth eaten double-breasted navy suit fastened with an oversized safety pin – the most wearable look of the collection. Other looks featured an red and blue argyle sweater ballooned and cinched at the waist and a graffiti swiggle print logo long sleeved tee shirt and high waisted light blue trousers with red side stripe on a male model who’s face was painted to resemble Naomi Campbell and a strut to match. The whole time the figures from earlier berate, applaud and react as they walk past.
New to Jeffrey’s vocabulary was the inclusion of tartan midi length skirt suit cinched at the waist and flared at the knee with beret to match or the long length tartan jacket with cropped trouser. All of which were inspired by Jeffrey’s trip to his hometown in Scotland and his Scottish heritage.
Liam Hodges AW18
This feeling of grunge and the 90s rave culture was evident at Liam Hodges. Styled with cartoon flora green hair and extreme makeup featuring X’s on the eyes and a downturned smile on the lips of some of the models. Models took to the checkerboard runway in cartoon graphics of daisies and ghosts t-shirts layered over thin black and white striped long sleeved t-shirts, bleached striped denim matching jacket and trousers complete with FILA sneaker-boots. Hodges drove home his message of youth and enjoying it while it lasted with a finale that had Baz Luhrman’s Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen).
‘Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth
oh nevermind;
you will not understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself
And recall in a way you can’t grasp now how the possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked…’
London Fashion Week: Mens a few years later; older and wiser still manages to intrigue, entertain and tug at the heart strings.
The fashion caravan has already trundled off to Milan, but before we take a small break from our reports from Milan, here are a few parting words on some of the last day's highlights and shows.
For AW18 Blood Brother takes a look into the Instant Win, Instant Lifestyle promised to us by the omnipotent force that is Camelot & The National Lottery.
Graphic prints continue to be a key feature of the Blood Brother style and with tracksuit on its best his AW18 show was the ideal proposal for the sartorial streetwear aesthetic.
The tailoring details were notable in the biggest part of the collection elevating the looks resulting the sartorial streetwear.
A collision of elevated streetwear, traditional Korean silhouettes and Western tailoring, the Autumn Winter 18 collection sees Kang.D work mostly in dark velvets and rich, tactile wools, also introducing jacquards.
Only black and white fabrics can be found in the Autumn Winter 18 collection, resulting in a shadowplay of light and dark, opposing forces and natures.
Singer Kill A Son opened the Bobby Abley AW18 show which was the last one for this fashion week.
Intense colours and playful combinations on the runway with Looney Tunes and the heroes of Warner Bros to be the protagonists on the bold prints.
The designer managed to create a different world on the runway- Bobbyland; where everyone is Welcome.
The fashion caravan has already trundled off to Milan, but before we take a small break from our reports from Milan, here are a few parting words on some of the second day highlights and shows.
This season the English brand participated with a presentation at The Strand which was strong enough to translate the ethos of the PHOEBE ENGLISH label.
Box and bomber jackets, smart wide trousers and a collaboration with designer Helen Lawrence on chunky knitwear completed the strong visuals of the collection and its installation.
With Innovative design and always #sustainable, the Christopher RÆBURN AW18 collection was for another one time unstoppable.
The inspiration for the Autumn Winter 18-19 collection comes from the beauty and the fragility of our oceans and it consists of pieces that many times can be more functional than only beautiful or trendy. He chose his own path, he never follows the trends but who cares; that's the reason we love him.
During the show we noted both male and female models on the runway, even though a big range of the pieces are unisex. A new collaboration with the surf brand Finistere and the Palladium one on footwear completed the sustainable design manifesto.
Futuristic, colourful and with 90s elements, Alex Mullins rocked the runway. His AW 18 collection pays tribute to the futuristic ideals of his early 90s inspirations of SS18. and continues to revisit his on-going interest of encompassing a timeless wardrobe with a contemporary take.
Coloured spiral tie dye roll necks paired with tailored pieces, cream and camel longline puffer coats and white shirts with modular cut out detailing feature across the collection.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY presented his Autumn Winter 2018 collection during London Fashion Week Men’s and he amazed the fashion world, once again.
We will definitely come back to his collection with another report, but for now we note that in one collection we saw words such as ‘Truth’, ‘Love’, ‘Energy’, ‘Power’, ‘Male’ and ‘Female’ to be translated on clothes.
Surrealism, intense colours, womenswear on male models and androgynous on female and elements of the Scottish tradition created this collection.
